Posts tagged ‘stamp’
A lot of times I don’t post things because I assume you already know them, and later find out you don’t. The hoopla over the PixScan mats has shown me that many of you don’t know what you can do with the mats and software you already have. So I am going to post this, in case you don’t want to wait on PixScan, and because this will help you understand how PixScan works. One of the benefits to the Pixscan will be to cut out stamped images. But as you can see here, it’s already pretty easy to do that.
The pics below show what the video couldn’t, but won’t make any sense without this video.
The blank stamping canvas has only registration marks
Fill it with stamped images. Tip: You can even emboss them, as long as its dark enough for the scanner to pick up.
After scanning it and saving as a .jpg, load it on the mat
Using the cut file I prepared in the video (above), these were my results
Even I had forgotten how well this technique works
PixScan works similar to this, except the marks are on the mat, and the mat is too big to scan so you either have to stitch together the images or use a photograph instead. You won’t get as clean a trace from the PixScan method, but you also won’t have to use a full sheet of your stamping paper, so there are tradeoffs.
There are other techniques we use that are even more similar to the PixScan technology, like when we use a “jig” to cut an 8-1/2 x 11 page using a 12 x 12 page with reg marks and a letter size cutout. But the more complicated our methods get, the more room for PixScan to improve upon it, though, so until we know how well PixScan works, we may as well lay aside our homebrew methods for a bit.
photo of the “jig” I use for cutting preprinted items of for printing and cutting a full 8.5 x 11.
Also, for tips on tracing stamped images to use with this technique or with your new PixScan mat, check out this earlier video
Realizing that many of us haven’t been content with cutting first and then stamping, I’ve been pondering some of the ways we can stamp then cut out the image with our Silhouettes. I finally settled on a method that works very well, and with a little effort up front, makes subsequent cuts quick and easy. Here’s how:
II. Next you will combine the studio file I’ve provided and the cutline you’ve created to prepare a new studio file.
-download smalltemplatesd.studio if you have an SD or smalltemplatec.studio if you have a Cameo and open it. Select File>Save As… and choose a new name to preserve the original template and begin working on a duplicate copy. Screenshots shown are for an SD.
IMPORTANT: Be sure you have the right file for your machine (SD ends in sd, Cameo ends in c). Do not change the paper size (should be LETTER) or the orientation (should be LANDSCAPE) or the template file provided will not work. If your plastic is smaller than letter size position it on the mat strategically. While this technique will work with any paper size/orientation and image size, the studio file will need adjustments that are beyond the scope of this tutorial.
-copy and paste the cutline you created in part I onto the mat of the new template document.
-position the cutline inside the L-shaped slots. You may rotate the cutline but be very careful not to resize it. Do not move, rotate or resize the slots at all. Here, the bike is turned on the diagonal so it will fit.
III. You are now ready to cut your plastic template
I used polypropylene notebook tab dividers (blue in the photos) from Dollar Tree for my template (8 colored tabs to a pack; possibly a back-to-school seasonal item), but you can use any somewhat stiff cuttable plastic such as transparency film, mylar, acetate, page protectors, report covers, etc. In fact, you can probably use card stock, though I’m not sure how well it will hold up over multiple uses. Keep in mind that what we are making here is a very accurate stencil.
-load plastic sheet onto mat, load mat into Silhouette
-be sure registration marks are turned OFF (you will see what looks like marks on your screen but no crosshatched area as shown in the next screen shot)
-open the Cut Style window and verify that the outer rectangle, the registration slots and the stamp outline are all set to cut (showing in red).
-choose appropriate cut settings (I use heavy card stock settings and double cut)
-cut the file with your Silhouette
-remove the template from the mat and carefully clear any remaining plastic from the stamp outline and registration slots.
All the steps above comprise a one time (per image) process and then your custom template can be used with that stamp and the corresponding .studio file until it wears out or you lose it. I suggest you mark it clearly so you know which stamp it goes with and store it with the stamp if possible. Be sure the .studio file is easy to find as well.
IV. It’s time to try out the plastic template
-stamp your image in the center of a half sheet (so you’ll have plenty of room for the tutorial) of light colored card stock in the ink of your choice. You can even powder emboss the image if you like.
-center the template carefully around the stamped image and tape it securely in place.
-carefully remove the template so as not to smear the ink
V. Time to cut around the stamped image
-Place the image with the surrounding marks on the Silhouette mat. General orientation of marks relative to machine is important, location is not. You can trim it down if you like, as I’ve done here for convenience. (And yes, I am using a Cricut mini mat in my Silhouette SD as they are cheaper than Silh mats.)
-in Silhouette Studio, open the Registration Mark Settings window, turn registration marks ON, and verify that they are set to default orientation (you should see crosshatches and only one set of 3 marks, as shown in the next screen shot).
-select cut settings appropriate for your card stock
-MANUALLY detect registration marks and cut. That’s it! Enjoy your cutout and repeat sections IV and V anytime you want to cut around that image again.
The same general idea can also be used with Make-the-Cut, but you will need to create your own file because the position of the registration marks changes with the size of your image.
You can theoretically use this technique to cut out any preprinted image (from a store-bought card, wrapping paper, a photo, etc.) provided you can get a good trace of it, but you might have to mount that preprinted image on another sheet of paper in order to have clear space to draw the registration marks.
Special thanks to Gayle aka Cut-It-Out on the Silhouette Plus board for testing the Cameo file for me!
If you have an eclips or a Zing this process is even easier. Check out Heather’s tutorial here.
Here’s a video on how to create a cuttable outline of your stamps using only Silhouette Studio (and a scanner):
And for those of you who prefer the steps written out:
-stamp your image clearly in black on white paper. (you can also use the back of the stamp, package insert or even an image from a catalog but be careful that size and details are identical)
-scan the stamped image (I use RGB or grayscale at 150 dpi/ppi, but that’s not important as this image is only for tracing) and save as a .jpg (this is important because .png or .psd files do not import at the proper size)
-file>merge and select your .jpg and click OK, or simply drag its icon onto the mat [note: this is a good time to roughly verify the size of your trace against the physical stamp]
-open the Trace window and click the “Select Trace Area” button, then drag around to select the area to be traced
-adjust settings until yellow in preview shows coverage you are happy with and then click the “Trace” button
-drag the traced image away from the .jpg
-click on the traced image (in the video I change its colors for better visibility) and open the Offset Window.
-click the Offset button and change the offset distance until it is the size you want and/or you see no unwanted interior details and click Apply
-If the margin is too wide once details are eliminated, keep that path selected and click Internal Offset. Adjust as desired and click Apply
-drag the paths apart and verify the one(s) you like against your .jpg image
– drag the .jpg, the original traced image, and any intermediate paths off the mat for safekeeping
-save and name the file
If you are going to cut then stamp:
-duplicate the desired cutline (in the video I click the Replicate button, then click Fill Page)
-cut a sheet of your mats from card stock and use a stamp positioner or other method to stamp on the cutouts (tip: it’s easier if you leave them on the mat, stamp, then remove the card stock and cutouts from the mat.)
I have had an idea rattling around in my head for a while and when I finally took time to try it out today I was amazed at how easy it was.
To cut, you will need a Cricut and a cartridge with a shadow feature.
To emboss you will need a Cuttlebug, Big Shot, Sizzix or similar machine, a piece of chipboard (cereal boxes are fine) and an embossing mat such as the tan Spellbinders or red plumbers rubber.
To stamp you will need some sort of cuttable stamp material. I could not get this image to cut with the clear silicone sheets like in the Cricut kit so I used the green rhinestone rubber material instead. You could also try 1/32 inch red rubber sheets or even fun foam.
Choose a simple image with stamping and embossing in mind. I chose a one piece image for the sake of simplification and I suggest you start with that. Cut as many blank shapes as you want from plain or (for embossing only) white core card stock using the shadow feature. Use the same dial size to cut the image itself once from chipboard and once from the stamp material. Make the stamp according to the instructions for the stamp material you are using.
Stamp the cutout with your custom made matching stamp, centering the image as much as possible and allow to dry.
Layer your cutout with the piece of chipboard, line up so that the chipboard is centered on the cutout and place them chipboard down on the B plate. Cover with embossing mat and shim as needed to get a nice emboss with your Cuttlebug.
That’s it, you now have a stamped, embossed cutout to apply to your layouts or cards!
Or if you skip the stamping you can just emboss. This one uses white core card stock and sanding so it shows up better for the photo.