Posts tagged ‘print and cut’

Part 8 … Tracing Without Tears

Part 8 of the Tracing Without Tears series puts the point editing info from Part 7 into use to clean up a broken line trace, and to manually trace an image that can’t be autotraced. Thanks so much for your incredible support of this series!

And in case you missed Part 1 (intro), you can find it here,Part 2 (threshold) is here, Part 3 (line art) is here , Part 4 (print and cut) is here, Part 5 (filter tech) is here, Part 6 (photos) is here and Part 7 (point editing) is here.

And there’s a playlist here.

May 17, 2013 at 8:18 pm 14 comments

Part 7 … Tracing Without Tears really Point Editing

Part 7 of the Tracing Without Tears series is not really about tracing at all. It’s about point editing, or node editing, which is prerequisite information for cleaning up traced images and so much more. I needed to lay this groundwork so I could answer your questions in the next video. So thanks for bearing with me as we veer off course a bit. Perhaps you’ll find this handy for more than just tracing.

And in case you missed Part 1 (intro), you can find it here, Part 2 (threshold) is here, Part 3 (line art) is here , Part 4 (print and cut) is here, Part 5 (filter tech) is here, and Part 6 (photos) is here.

And there’s a playlist here.

April 23, 2013 at 5:58 pm 11 comments

Part 6 … Tracing Without Tears

For those of you who have been clamoring for a tutorial on tracing photos, I’m happy to announce the release of Tracing without Tears Part 6. I’ve learned so much along the way, and have become impressed at how much you really can do with just the limited capabilities in Silhouette Studio. I thought this would be the end of the series, but I’ve got a few extra tips and tricks that didn’t fit in the other videos so I guess there will be at least one more after this. Thanks again for all your kind comments and encouragement.

And in case you missed Part 1 (intro), you can find it here,Part 2 (threshold) is here, Part 3 (line art) is here , Part 4 (print and cut) is here, and Part 5 (filter tech) is here.

And there’s a playlist here.

March 29, 2013 at 1:00 pm 19 comments

Part 5 … Tracing Without Tears

Part 5 of the Tracing Without Tears series is done, and it answers all of you who’ve been wanting an explanation about the high pass, low pass and scaling controls. It’s a little technical and not that practical, but  is needed background before we move into more advanced tracing projects.

And in case you missed Part 1, you can find it here,Part 2 is here, Part 3 is here and Part 4 is here.

And there’s a playlist here.

March 15, 2013 at 8:35 pm 13 comments

Part 4 … Tracing Without Tears

Today I’m posting Part 4 of the Tracing Without Tears series, which focuses on tracing for print and cut. I go through a half dozen representative examples including a cut file that has already been traced, a decoupage sheet, and several styles of clip art. I also unearth the mystery of the trace and detach button and show one use for the low pass filter. Thanks again for your enthusiastic response to this video series. Keep leaving your comments and keep spreading the word while I keep the videos coming!

And in case you missed Part 1, you can find it here ,Part 2 is here and Part 3 is here.

And there’s a playlist here.

March 2, 2013 at 10:28 am 21 comments

Double-sided print and cut in SS

Once you’ve mastered print and cut with the Silhouette, the next logical step is double-sided print and cut. I see a lot of questions about this so I decided to make a video on how I do it. So many possibilities once you know the tricks!

January 18, 2013 at 12:09 pm 22 comments

Print and cut with CCR tutorial video

Cricut Craft Room finally fixed the bug that spit out the mat on some machines after each cut! To celebrate I’ve put together a few quick digis and a video to show how to cut them, or your own images or sentiments, with Cricut Craft Room. This demonstrates the hinge method, which also works in the same way with the Gypsy and Cricut Design Studio, as well as many other software packages on many other cutters.

Download the PDF here (goes with the Accent shape in Cricut Craft Room Basics cut at 2 inches) Be sure to print at 100%.

July 13, 2012 at 5:06 pm 18 comments

Round and round challenge card

This card I made for the CAS-ual Friday CFC-59 Challenge has the requisite circles, as well a lot of other trendy features all rolled (pun intended) into one. I’ve got a bicycle, a banner, some bakers twine, some washi tape, some neon colors and some Tim Holtz embossing all represented. This card also features print and cut with my Silhouette SD using a character from Lauren Ashpole’s awesome Bikes dingbat font as a digital stamp. And the banner is cut out using my own Banner Bridge font which you can find here.

June 29, 2012 at 2:25 pm 2 comments

Stamp and cut with a Silhouette

Realizing that many of us haven’t been content with cutting first and then stamping, I’ve been pondering some of the ways we can stamp then cut out the image with our Silhouettes. I finally settled on a method that works very well, and with a little effort up front, makes subsequent cuts quick and easy. Here’s how:

I. Create a cuttable outline of your stamp the same as you would for cut-and-stamp or print-and-cut. If you don’t know how to do this, I have a video here and written steps here.

II. Next you will combine the studio file I’ve provided and the cutline you’ve created to prepare a new studio file.

-download if you have an SD or if you have a Cameo and open it. Select File>Save As… and choose a new name to preserve the original template and begin working on a duplicate copy. Screenshots shown are for an SD.

IMPORTANT: Be sure you have the right file for your machine (SD ends in sd, Cameo ends in c). Do not change the paper size (should be LETTER) or the orientation (should be LANDSCAPE) or the template file provided will not work. If your plastic is smaller than letter size position it on the mat strategically. While this technique will work with any paper size/orientation and image size, the studio file will need adjustments that are beyond the scope of this tutorial.

-copy and paste the cutline you created in part I onto the mat of the new template document.

-position the cutline inside the L-shaped slots. You may rotate the cutline but be very careful not to resize it. Do not move, rotate or resize the slots at all. Here, the bike is turned on the diagonal so it will fit.

III. You are now ready to cut your plastic template

I used polypropylene notebook tab dividers (blue in the photos) from Dollar Tree for my template (8 colored tabs to a pack; possibly a back-to-school seasonal item), but you can use any somewhat stiff cuttable plastic such as transparency film, mylar, acetate, page protectors, report covers, etc. In fact, you can probably use card stock, though I’m not sure how well it will hold up over multiple uses. Keep in mind that what we are making here is a very accurate stencil.

-load plastic sheet onto mat, load mat into Silhouette

-be sure registration marks are turned OFF (you will see what looks like marks on your screen but no crosshatched area as shown in the next screen shot)

-open the Cut Style window and verify that the outer rectangle, the registration slots and the stamp outline are all set to cut (showing in red).

-choose appropriate cut settings (I use heavy card stock settings and double cut)

-cut the file with your Silhouette

-remove the template from the mat and carefully clear any remaining plastic from the stamp outline and registration slots.

All the steps above comprise a one time (per image) process and then your custom template can be used with that stamp and the corresponding .studio file until it wears out or you lose it. I suggest you mark it clearly so you know which stamp it goes with and store it with the stamp if possible. Be sure the .studio file is easy to find as well.

IV. It’s time to try out the plastic template

-stamp your image in the center of a half sheet (so you’ll have plenty of room for the tutorial) of light colored card stock in the ink of your choice. You can even powder emboss the image if you like.

-center the template carefully around the stamped image and tape it securely in place.

-use a black pen to draw in all 3 registration marks through the slots. Be sure to fill in darkly and solidly.

-carefully remove the template so as not to smear the ink

V. Time to cut around the stamped image

-Place the image with the surrounding marks on the Silhouette mat. General orientation of marks relative to machine is important, location is not. You can trim it down if you like, as I’ve done here for convenience. (And yes, I am using a Cricut mini mat in my Silhouette SD as they are cheaper than Silh mats.)

-in Silhouette Studio, open the Registration Mark Settings window, turn registration marks ON, and verify that they are set to default orientation (you should see crosshatches and only one set of 3 marks, as shown in the next screen shot).

-open the Cut Style window and turn off all the cut lines except the stamp outline

-select cut settings appropriate for your card stock

-MANUALLY detect registration marks and cut. That’s it! Enjoy your cutout and repeat sections IV and V anytime you want to cut around that image again.

The same general idea can also be used with Make-the-Cut, but you will need to create your own file because the position of the registration marks changes with the size of your image.

You can theoretically use this technique to cut out any preprinted image (from a store-bought card, wrapping paper, a photo, etc.) provided you can get a good trace of it, but you might have to mount that preprinted image on another sheet of paper in order to have clear space to draw the registration marks.

Special thanks to Gayle aka Cut-It-Out on the Silhouette Plus board for testing the Cameo file for me!

If you have an eclips or a Zing this process is even easier. Check out Heather’s tutorial here.

June 20, 2012 at 2:32 pm 19 comments

How to make stamp mats with Silhouette Studio

Here’s a video on how to create a cuttable outline of your stamps using only Silhouette Studio (and a scanner):

And for those of you who prefer the steps written out:

-stamp your image clearly in black on white paper. (you can also use the back of the stamp, package insert or even an image from a catalog but be careful that size and details are identical)

-scan the stamped image (I use RGB or grayscale at 150 dpi/ppi, but that’s not important as this image is only for tracing) and save as a .jpg (this is important because .png or .psd files do not import at the proper size)

-file>merge and select your .jpg and click OK, or simply drag its icon onto the mat [note: this is a good time to roughly verify the size of your trace against the physical stamp]

-open the Trace window and click the “Select Trace Area” button, then drag around to select the area to be traced

-adjust settings until yellow in preview shows coverage you are happy with and then click the “Trace” button

-drag the traced image away from the .jpg

-click on the traced image (in the video I change its colors for better visibility) and open the Offset Window.

-click the Offset button and change the offset distance until it is the size you want and/or you see no unwanted interior details and click Apply

-If the margin is too wide once details are eliminated, keep that path selected and click Internal Offset. Adjust as desired and click Apply

-drag the paths apart and verify the one(s) you like against your .jpg image

- drag the .jpg, the original traced image, and any intermediate paths off the mat for safekeeping

-save and name the file

If you are going to cut then stamp:

-duplicate the desired cutline (in the video I click the Replicate button, then click Fill Page)

-cut a sheet of your mats from card stock and use a stamp positioner or other method to stamp on the cutouts (tip: it’s easier if you leave them on the mat, stamp, then remove the card stock and cutouts from the mat.)

For making stamp mats in Make-The-Cut  scroll to the bottom of this post.

My earlier video on making stamp mats in SCAL is here.

June 18, 2012 at 2:12 pm 21 comments

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